The history of the square
Largo do Intendente takes its name from Diogo Inácio de Pina Manique, an 18th-century administrator known as the Intendente — the overseer. The square was a centre of commerce for much of its history, dominated by the Casa Independência, a tiled azulejo shop that has operated at number 23 since 1908 and remains one of the few original businesses still trading.
By the late 20th century the square had become neglected. The municipality began its rehabilitation in 2013. The square was repaved, the central fountain restored, and the surrounding buildings renovated. Independent businesses began moving in — cafés, studios, small restaurants.
The Saturday market followed.
The makers
The market at Largo do Intendente runs on Saturday mornings. It is smaller than LX Factory — more concentrated, more neighbourhood in character. The makers here are often Lisbon-based artisans who live within walking distance of the square.
You will find ceramics made in studios in the surrounding streets, natural textile dye work using plants sourced from the Alentejo, handbound notebooks, and a recurring presence of zine makers and small-press publishers who treat the market as their distribution network.
The market is also notable for the number of makers who do not have Instagram accounts or online shops. For some of them, this is the only place to find their work.
The neighbourhood around the square
Walk north from the square along Rua do Benformoso into the heart of Mouraria. This is one of the oldest continuously inhabited parts of Lisbon — the neighbourhood outside the city walls where the Moorish population was permitted to remain after the 1147 conquest.
The street is narrow, the buildings uneven, the smell of grilled fish and coffee mixing at every corner. Stop at the Mercado de Mouraria on Rua dos Cavaleiros for the best selection of fresh produce in the area.
What to eat nearby
Casa do Alentejo, a few minutes' walk on Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, has been operating since 1932 in a remarkable Moorish Revival palace. The restaurant is open to non-members and serves straightforward Portuguese food at honest prices in one of the city's most extraordinary dining rooms.